Not yet born that truck farmer, who would have managed to grow a crop, without passing a couple of battles with pests attacking him. And even on such a rather specific vegetable as a bow is its hunter in the form of an onion fly. About the peculiarities of the development of the onion fly and the main ways to combat it, you can learn from our article.
When does an onion fly fly?
First, let's learn how to "recognize the enemy in person." The adult individual of the onion fly is not much different from its usual relative - a housefly. This insect is a small (from 6 to 8 mm in length) size, having a yellow-gray color. The first period of activity of the onion fly begins with the onset of spring heat in April , which roughly coincides with the flowering time of the cherry. The eggs laid at this time pass through all phases of development by July, and then the second year of the onion fly begins.
Methods of combating onion fly
Adult specimens of onion fly themselves do not harm either the onions or other onion plants by themselves. Their mission is to lay white oblong eggs on the bulbous parts of the ground. Approximately in 7-10 days from each egg there is a small (8-10 mm), but very gluttonous larva, which eats away in the body of the bulb. Having spent almost 3 weeks in this way and causing irreparable harm to the plant, the larva leaves in the ground, where it passes into the pupa stage. The life of the pupa lasts approximately 20 days, after which an adult of the onion fly emerges from it. Proceeding from this it is clear that the fight against the onion fly should include several stages:
- Scare away adults.
- Destruction of larvae.
- Destruction of hibernating pupae in the soil.
How to protect the onion from the onion fly?
So, the goal number 1 - scare off the onion plantings of adult insects. For this, simple but effective national methods of combating the onion fly can be used. For example, plan a garden so that onion beds alternate with carrots. Thus it will turn out to scare away not only the onion, but also the carrot fly. To bite a fly from a bow will also help the treatment of beds with infusions of valerian, tomato leaves, pine needles, and wild rosemary. But such processing will be effective only if it is held before the beginning of summer.
Fighting the onion fly larvae
If the fly could not scare off and laying eggs on the bulbs successfully, then it's time to move into the phase of struggle with the larvae. First of all, it is necessary to inspect the crops for the laid eggs and gently clean the found masonry with a knife. Although this does not help to completely get rid of the pest (some eggs may not be on the bulb itself, but next to it in the ground), but it will significantly reduce its number. A solution of common table salt will help to cope with the remaining ones. For its preparation, it is necessary to dilute 300 grams of salt in 10 liters of water, and then to shed the beds at a time when the shoots of onions reach a height of 5-7 cm. After 15-20 days, the treatment will need to be repeated, but with a more concentrated solution (450 grams of salt for 10 liters of water). The final third treatment is carried out after 20 days, and the salt in the solution is even greater (600 grams per 10 liters of water). After 4-5 hours after each treatment, the bed must be spilled with plenty of water.
Destruction of onion fly pupae
Since even the most active struggle against the onion fly can not serve as a guarantee that the pupae did not remain in the bed for winter, it is important to observe the following rules:
- Do not put onions in the same place more often than once every three or four years.
- After autumn harvesting, dig up the garden to a depth of at least 20-25 cm.
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