Prune cherry in the spring

Stone fruit trees, as a rule, have a fairly short period of rest. They wake up earlier than other trees, on their branches buds swell and flowers blossom. Very often earlier flowering leads to crop failure - the emerging ovaries can die from spring frosts, which are more the rule than the exception in our climatic conditions. That is why they are advised to pay special attention to their care in the spring. One of the main care procedures is pruning , which is especially needed by trees with unlimited growth, which must be restrained, for example, cherry.

Pruning is best done in the early spring, before the first buds and flowers appeared on it. Since this is an annual procedure necessary for the proper development of the tree and active fruiting, you should know how to trim the cherry in the spring properly .

Features of correct pruning of sweet cherry

Features of this procedure depend on the age of the tree and the goals that you pursue. So, there are three types of pruning:

1. Forming pruning is mandatory for young cherries and must be performed annually. The task of such trimming is to form a uniform tree skeleton, making out the basic skeleton branches in the form of a cone with a wide base, in order to ensure their uniform growth and density. This will ensure the young tree a good light and air permeability and create optimal conditions for fruiting. The first pruning is carried out for the first year after planting. We bring to your attention the detailed scheme of the forming trimming of young cherries by years:

• 1 st year. The young seedling is shortened to a height of approximately 1 m. To do this, it is better to measure the length of the stem 50-60 cm, count from the mark up 4-5 kidneys and cut off the top. If the seedling is very small, then there is no need to trim the height;
• 2 nd year. We form the lower tier of 3-4 lateral shoots. Lower cut about 60 cm, the rest - according to its level. Next, measure from the lower tier of 60 cm, count 4 kidneys up and produce a pruning of the upper branch;
• 3rd year. We form the second tier and shoots of the second order. The distance between the tiers should be 60-80 cm. The lower branch, if it turned out to be weak and insufficiently developed, can not be touched, and all subsequent ones can be cut off to its level. For the formation of framed branches of the second order, strong shoots will fit, which grow outward approximately 15-2 cm from the trunk. If they are considerably longer than the basic skeletal branches, it is necessary to make the shoots of the second order shorter by 15 cm;
• 4th year. Young shoots growing inside the crown are removed. The basic skeletal branches are shortened to about 70 cm. If they have not yet reached this length, they are not cut off. The branches of the upper tier are cut so that they are about 20 cm shorter than the main, central branch;
• The 5th and subsequent years shorten only the powerful shoots that grow inside the crown, which make it too thick and interfere with full fruit bearing.