Unpretentious nature and bright year-round flowering made pelargonium a real folk flower. Twenty years ago, a pot of geranium (a common name for the plant) could be found on almost any windowsill. Today Pelargonium, home care is extremely simple, is experiencing a new round of popularity.
Pelargonium - home care for beginners
To understand how to care for pelargonium is not difficult. The motto of care at home is moderation:
- regular watering without stagnation of water;
- loose and nutritious, but not greasy soil;
- transplant on demand;
- annual pruning;
- good lighting;
- temperature + 25 ° C in summer and + 18 ° C in winter.
This simple approach, which does not require any special efforts from the florist, can transform a modest bush into a luxurious flowering plant. The only thing that is under strict prohibition is spraying and washing under the shower. Drops of water not only lead to the appearance of ugly spots on leaves, but can also be harmful to young plants. Dust is better to remove by a dry method - a soft clean cloth.
Pelargonium - how to water?
To maintain a lush crown and active flowering, pelargonium must be watered as the land dries out. In doing so, it is necessary to ensure that the water in the pot does not stagnate and the earthen coma does not turn into a swamp - excessive humidity will lead to decay of roots and the inevitable death of a green pet. In winter (during the rest period), watering is minimized to one in two weeks. Water is better to use a constant, room temperature.
How to trim pelargonium?
Regular shaping pruning of pelargonium is an obligatory part of the care for most of its species (except for the royal pelargonium ). To form a magnificent neat little bush and stimulate flowering in young geraniums pinch the tip, and as the growth is cut off and side shoots. At the same time, at least 3-4 leaves should remain on each shoot. Optimum, if the cuttings work will be performed in the autumn, but if necessary, you can arrange a pelargonium haircut at any convenient time of year, with the exception of a rest period (December-January).
How to transplant pelargonium?
Pelargonium transplantation is made on demand - when the pot is already frankly small. The plant is watered in advance abundantly, and then moved to a new container along with a clod of earth, filling the cracks with fresh soil and well ramming. At the bottom of the tank, a thick layer of drainage is laid-pebbles, expanded clay, broken pots, etc. The time of year for relocation of Pelargonium is not of decisive importance, it will equally well settle down in a new place in both autumn and spring. The only period when it is better not to disturb the plant once again is hibernation in December-January.
Primer for pelargonium
That the plant does not begin to "fatten", actively increasing the green mass to the detriment of flowering, the soil for pelargonium should be moderately nutritious. Ideal for growing all types of geranium is a universal primer for flowering plants. If desired, the soil mixture can be prepared independently, mixing the same amount of garden soil and sand, with the addition of a small amount of peat.
Pelargonium, receiving care at home under all the rules, does not really need to make additional nutrients (feeding). If necessary, you can periodically (once a month and a half or two months) feed the plant with a weak solution of a universal flower fertilizer or add a little iodine (1 drop per liter) to the water for irrigation. Fresh organic top dressing is best not to use, as they can burn the roots.
What kind of pot is needed for pelargonium?
To the beautiful geranium pleased not only the lush green leaves, but also active flowering, its root system should be a bit cramped. Determine how much pot is needed for pelargonium can be based on its kind. For miniature varieties capacity from 0.25 liters (the first six months) to 2 liters (2-3 years of life) will suit. The stalk of the zone geranium can be immediately planted in a large (1.5-2 liters) container, and for an adult plant its size can reach 8-10 liters.
Pelargonium, home care for which is carried out without gross violations, the material of the "house" is not choosy. It is quite comfortable in inexpensive and easy-care plastic containers. But if there are problems with excessive moisture (the appearance of mold, decay of roots, etc.), the plant should be moved to an environmentally friendly and well-water-and-ceramics-free ceramic.
How to propagate Pelargonium?
The minimum labor-consuming method is to acquire an attracted sort of pelargonium - propagation by cuttings. As a planting material it is possible to use shoots remaining after annual pruning. Ideally suited young, not yet lignified cuttings , on which from 3 to 5 leaves. Simple varieties can be rooted in glasses with water, for terry it is better to use light soil or wet sand. The appearance of rootlets should be expected no earlier than 10-12 days, and the signal that the stalk is ingrained in the sand is the appearance of young leaves on it.
Why does not Pelargonium blossom?
The situation when the geranium blooms very rarely or does not hurry to please the owner with buds, is often found. Non-flowering pelargonium indicates that mistakes have crept in at home:
- The pot is not in size. In a large capacity, flowering will begin only after the plant spans the whole earth coma. In a small pelargonium begins to wither and hurt.
- Violations of the drinking regime. When the pelargonium blooms, it needs a lot of moisture. But if the moisture is too much, then the process of root rot, which is harmful to the plant, begins. When there is a lack of drinking, the leaves and flower stalks dry in Pelargonium.
- Lack of light. Stimulate flowering will help additional illumination in the winter or installation on a well-lit window (ideally - on a loggia) in the summer.
- Overwork. In order for the pelargonium to have the strength to blossom, it needs a rest period (December-January), with a minimum of watering, a cool (+ 15 ° C), and a refusal to feed. In a warm room, all the forces of the plant are spent on maintaining the crown, but they simply do not remain on the bookmark of the peduncles.
Pelargonium diseases
Strong, according to the rules of well-groomed pelargonium, pests and diseases are not terrible - in the first it scares off a specific smell, while the latter arise only as a result of gross violations in care. But it is worth to weaken the plant, it risks becoming a victim of the following misfortunes:
- Flower mold. Occurs on buds, can go to the stem. It is provoked by high humidity and lack of fresh air. For prevention, it is necessary to remove faded buds.
- Edema. Appearance on the lower part of the leaves of the growth. The reason is excessive humidity and stagnant air.
- Leaf spotting. The result of the action of pathogens of fungal and bacterial diseases. It often occurs in damp and stuffy rooms.
- Rust. The problem of zonal pelargonium, manifests itself in the form of brown acne on the underside of leaflets. It is treated by spraying with fungicidal preparations ("Fitosporin", "Topaz", "Strobi").
- Ticks. Present themselves with dry discolored spots on the leaves. Well bred at high temperature and humidity. Destroyed by "Fufanon", "Carbophos", "Phyto-farm".
- Aphid. You can suspect an attack by twisting the leaves. Methods of fighting both with ticks.
- Whitefly. On the leaves you can see colonies of small insects of white color. For destruction, drugs " Aktara ", "Tanrek", "Actellik" are used.