Preparation of climbing roses for winter

Give a touch of charm and improve any area - these tasks are no doubt over the shoulders of a climbing rose . And even the most neglected garden will not look so gloomy if you put in it an arbor or an openwork lattice, strewn with fragrant pink buds. But how to keep a lumpy rose in the winter, so that its charm refreshes the site for more than a year? We will talk about the subtleties of caring for wicker roses and preparing them for the winter today.

Do I need to prepare roses for the winter?

Inexperienced gardeners quite often unwisely rely on the word "frost" in the characteristics of the selected variety of roses and send them to the winter without proper preparation. No, of course, varietal characteristics do not lie and roses are really capable of withstanding frosts to -20 and even -30 degrees. But it should be remembered that we are talking about long frosty periods, which in recent times is a rarity. But more characteristic for modern winters alternation of frosts and thaws for roses are disastrous. That is why, without additional preparation for the winter, roses, and especially roses are lint-free, can not be avoided.

What to do with a climbing rose for the winter?

Step One - Feeding

Preparation of climbing roses to hibernation should begin at the end of summer. In the first decade of August, roses should be well fertilized, using for this purpose potassium phosphoric fertilizing, which contribute to faster ripening of shoots. The first top dressing is carried out on August 5-7, preparing a solution from one bucket of water, 25 grams of superphosphate , 2.5 grams of boric acid and 10 grams of potassium sulfate. This amount will be enough to handle 4 square meters of pink landings. About a month after this, repeated fertilizing is carried out using a solution of 10 liters of water, 15 grams of superphosphate and 16 grams of potassium sulfate. You can also feed the roses and specialized autumn fertilizer, for example, "Kemira - autumn".

Step Two - limiting growth

Since the beginning of September, the rosary has stopped loosening the soil and cutting off shoots and buds. All this is done in order not to provoke the emergence of new shoots from the sleeping buds. If the rose during this period continues to actively grow and blossom, this process is "braked" artificially, pinching new shoots and bending the stems at the base of the shoots.

Step Three - Preparation for shelter for the winter

At the end of September, it is time to prepare for laying the rose in shelter. In its course, the roses are torn off all the lower leaves, and they must be removed together with the petioles. After removing the leaves, the pink lashes are carefully removed from the supports, allowing them to duck to the ground under their own weight. Grassy, ​​unsealed shoots are cut and sprinkled with slices by any antiseptic, for example, charcoal. After the bush has stayed in this condition for a day, a bucket of dry and clean sand is poured into its middle, and then it is allowed to stand for another two days. At the end of this time, all leaves remaining on the bush are removed from the bush, and the whip is sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate.

How to lay a stumpy rose for the winter?

When all the preparatory stages are over, you need to cover Clinging rose for the winter. We will make a reservation that this can only be done with a positive air temperature and only in clear weather. Bend under their own weight, the whips are tied in bundles, and then placed on hooks or props, so that they do not touch the ground. On the ground under lashes lay lapnik or dry foliage. The next stage is equipped with a gable roof made of wooden boards, which is covered with a layer of polyethylene on top. The piece of film must be of this size to cover and one of the ends of the structure. The second end is left open until frosts come in at -5 ... -7 degrees, after which it is covered with film or plywood.